Firstly the pitfalls - remember that many insurance companies insist on a certain standard of locks and fittings for front doors, and in the event of a burglary may refuse to pay out if your security isn't up to scratch - even if the thief got in another way! Below I've listed the measures and British Standards most insurers require - check your locks meet these standards. If you are in doubt about whether your security arrangements comply with your insurance company's requirements you must check and get written confirmation from them.

Another source of heartache is double glazed doors and windows (with multipoint locking systems). Some of these are very good, but some are not. This is such a minefield, that it is strongly recommended that you refer to Wandsworth Crime Prevention Centre to find out whether these type of doors are adequate if in any doubt. Beware adding additional locks to UPVC or metal doors and windows as you could invalidate your guarantee or do irreparable damage. Always consult an expert for these types of doors.

 

So with those disclaimers out of the way,
here are the basics for a WOODEN front door:

The door itself (number 1 on the diagram) should be at least 44mm thick (one and three quarter inches), be of solid timber (not hollow) and any panels within it should be an absolute minimum of 14mm (half an inch) thick. This will provide strength against a sound kick from a burglar. Incidentally if you're buying a new door, why not consider one without panels, or where the panels are thicker than the door? The door frame must be solid and securely fixed the the walls at least every 600mm (23 inches) around the whole frame.

The door must hang on at least THREE 100mm (4 inch) hinges.

Ideally there should be two or three hinge bolts (number 5 on the second diagram) midway between the hinges. These are small metal bars which protrude from the door's edge on the hinge side. When the door is closed they marry with holes in the door frame, adding strength against kicking. These are a must if your door opens outwards.

There should be a British Standard (BS3621) 5 lever deadlock (mortice lock) (number 3 on the diagram) approximately a third of the way up the door (any higher and the bottom half of the door may be vulnerable).

The should be a good quality automatic deadlatch cylinder lock (rimlock) (number 2 on the diagram) approximately a third of the way down the door. Note: It's better to have an automatic deadlatch as these prevent burglars using credit cards or a plastic sheet to 'slip the lock' open. Ordinary latches (often called Yale locks) don't have this protection.

Strengthen the door frame against the locks splintering the wood, by fitting a 'London Bar' (number 4 on the diagram). This is a metal strip that runs vertically down the door frame on the lock side. A 'Birmingham Bar' (also 4 on the diagram) is similar to a London bar, but runs down the hinge side of the door frame.

A door chain (number 9 on the diagram) is a good idea as it allows you to check who's calling first before fully opening the door. A checkbar is very similar, but employs a metal bar instead of the chain, and is that bit stronger. A door viewer (also 9 on the diagram) or peephole will allow you to check who's outside before opening the door.

A letterbox protector (not shown) fits on the inside of the door, and prevents thieves using poles and hooks to 'fish' for keys or valuables in your hallway - letters and newspapers still make it through easily! It's a good idea to never leave keys or money in the hallway. Imagine coming down in the morning to find your keys, and car, gone.

A lockguard kit (or kicklock) (7 on the diagram) is basically two metal plates which sit on either side of the door, sandwiching the mortice lock so it doesn't pop out of the door when kicked.

If you have glass panels (8 on the diagram) they should be fitted with laminated security glass, or have a metal grid or polycarbonate sheet (riot sheild material) added inside. In the case of leaded glass panels, these are not secure unless you fit secondary laminated security glass, polycarbonate sheet or a metal grille. This will prevent the panels being broken, or the lead being unpicked to remove the glass.

Finally don't forget to consider fire safety. Fit smoke alarms which conform to the British Standard (BS5446). Check they work at least once a year - replace batteries regularly. Plan your escape route, and always ensure you can get out in an emergency.

 

SO, CHECK YOUR HOME CONTENTS POLICY TO SEE WHAT IS REQUIRED, AND IF IN DOUBT, CONTACT THE WANDSWORTH CRIME PREVENTION SHOP IN THE ARNDALE CENTRE FOR ADVICE. CONTACT DETAILS FOR THE CRIME PREVENTION SHOP AND LINKS TO OTHER CRIME PREVENTION SITES ARE ON THE "LINKS AND CONTACTS" PAGE.

 

Information and diagram reproduced from Metropolitan Police leaflet "How Secure Is Your Home" available from Police Stations and the Wandsworth Crime Prevention Shop. Crime prevention advice is given freely without the intention of creating a contract, neither do the Metropolitan Police Service or Hillside Neighbourhood Watch take any legal responsibility for the advice given.

 

BRITISH STANDARDS:
Security of Buildings Against Crime BS8220
Thief Resistant Door Locks BS3621
Intruder Alarms BS4737
Improved Security of Double Glazed Windows BS7950

Smoke Alarms BS5446

Strength Standard for Double Glazed Doors PAS024